At Home Conditioning Treatments

Pamper Yourself

Every brand of products has an "at home" conditioning treatment for you to purchase and utilize at home to keep your hair feeling it's best between visits to the salon.  You apply these in place of your normal conditioner once a week. 

When applying the treatment, squeeze out as much excess water as possible from your hair before applying, even using a towel to squeeze out even more water, if you like.  A damp sponge absorbs more than a sopping one.  Really work the conditioner through your hair, taking care to work the product through small sections, detangling as you go.  Leave it in for the duration of your shower.  The steam from the shower will open the cuticle layer (outer layer) and allow the product to penetrate more deeply into the hair shaft.  Rinse out just before getting out of the shower.


Preferred At Home Conditioning Treatments:



It's A 10 Miracle Hair Mask is one of my favorites.  I use it as my regular conditioner because my hair has been so damaged from all of the different colors I've had, but I only wash my hair twice a week.  This is a heavy duty product that is best used as a once a week treatment for finer hair.



Redken has a number of options when it comes to conditioning treatments:





Color Extend Rich Recovery is a protective treatment for color treated hair.  Using their Fade Resist Complex, UV filters, cranberry oil and strengthening ceramides, this product locks in your color and locks out environmental aggressors that weaken color.

Smooth Lock Butter Silk is an intensive treatment for dry and unruly hair.  This product uses Redken's Interlock Protein Network and smoothing Heat Fuse Complex, as well as almond oil and a thermo-activated polymer to give your hair the moisture and smoothness that you've been missing.  It will leave your hair smoother and shinier, with less frizz and more manageability.

All Soft Heavy Cream is a super treatment for dry and brittle hair.  It deeply conditions and transforms your hair by using the Interlock Protein Network and a Keratin Enrich Complex with omega-6 enriched argan oil.  It rebuilds lost protein and leaves hair softened with better manageability and shine.






Extreme Strength Builder Plus is a fortifying mask for highly distressed hair.  It uses Redken's Interlock Protein Network and Fortifying Complex to deliver protein and ceramides to fortify weakend areas of the hair, protect the internal strength and reinforce surface protection to enhance shine.








Paul Mitchell Super Charged Moisturizer is another reliable product that intensely hydrates dry hair to make hair softer, shinier and more manageable.






MorrocanOil is a brand that is building in popularity.  They've shown that their products are strong enough for the toughest hair problems.  Their treatments come in three varieties.





Weightless Hydrating Mask  uses argan oil to treat, hydrate and condition fine dry hair to improve texture, shine and manageability without being as heavy as some of the other options out there.







Restorative Hair Mask is for weakened and damaged hair.  It's rich in argan oil and vegetable protein to restore hair's strength and elasticity, leaving the hair softer and more manageable.








Intense Hydrating Mask is meant for medium to thick dry hair.  It restores the moisture in the hair by utilizing argan oil to hydrate and condition.







Pureology's Precious Oil Softening Hair Mask is for brittle and dull hair.  Their patented OleoAntiFadeComplex deeply nourishes and enhances hair's shine.





There are a large number of options in the beauty industry, and these are only a few examples.  Talk to your stylist and find out which one will best suit your needs.  Your hair will thank you for taking care of it more regularly.  Remember, it is a permanent accessory that goes with you everywhere.  Treat it right and it will take care of you.

Kelly Conner

Master Stylist, Licensed Massage Therapist

Regis Salon, Annapolis Mall
410-266-5551

Curling Irons

Styling Saturday

There are many options out there in the curling iron world.  Spring or marcel  barrel, corded or stove iron, barrel color, size and shape, and brand.  With so many options, how does one choose?  Let's start with the first set of options. 

Spring Iron

Marcel Iron

What is the difference between spring and marcel?  Marcel irons have a free swinging clamp which require the user to open and close manually.  Spring irons have a spring that closes the clamp tight around the hair to create an easier use for the user.  Most people feel comfortable with a spring iron because they have less to concentrate on  with the curling iron so they can concentrate on their hair more.  Some stylists feel more comfortable with a marcel because of how they can wind the hair into the iron.  Personally, I can't trust myself with a marcel because I have a tendency to grab for the end of the iron and most marcel irons do not have a protective piece over the tip of the hot barrel.  I will always burn myself, guaranteed.



Next options are corded and stove. The average person only knows of corded irons.  But the old school style of iron didn't have a cord because electricity wasn't free flowing.  Instead, you would place your iron in a stove and allow the stove to heat the metal of the barrel.  Presently, you can buy a kit of different size barrels so that you have a multitude of options to suit every type of curl you could want.

You'll see all kinds of sizes of irons, ranging from 1 /4" to 3".  Each barrel gives a distinctive look.  Logically, the smaller the barrel, the smaller the curl.  Also, the larger the barrel, the more volume you'll get.  The smaller the barrel you choose, the longer the curl will last.  If your hair has a tendency to fall within hours of curling your hair, you may want to try a smaller barrel iron.  The larger barrels curls won't hold as long, but they work great when you're just trying to get a "romantic curl" look.

BaByliss Pro Nano Titanium

Hot Tools Ceramic

There are a variety of barrel options now.  Most of the time, if you see different colored barrels, it's because they are made of different materials.  You have options of the standard gold barrel, ceramic, tourmaline, and nano titanium.  Ceramic seems to be a favorite because it has the ability to produce a softer heat than the original metal barrels do.  It also keeps the heat more evenly distributed throughout the iron because it doesn't get hot spots like the metal ones can. The Nano Titanium is also beginning to pick up in popularity.  I have a BaByliss C-Shaped iron that works well that is made from Nano Titanium.  With tourmaline, I had a flat iron once that had tourmaline plates and I didn't feel like it straightened well enough, but for less curly or coarse hair, it would be fine.  It might not have been the heat source that was the problem, but it felt like an inferior product to the CHI ceramic flat iron that I was used to.

Curling wands have also gained in popularity.  It's a straight barrel with no clasp to grab onto the hair.  You just wind the hair around the barrel to create a completely different look of curls.  Usually the wand is sold with a glove to protect your fingers when curling.  If you don't want to buy a separate iron for these types of curls, you can always wind your hair around the curling iron you already own.

The options for brands are limitless in today's world of variety.  Some of the brands I trust have been listed already.  Hot Tools makes a good curling iron with many different barrel materials in a large variety of barrel size options.  Another preferred brand is BaByliss.  I had a blow dryer from this brand and it was an amazing appliance.  It worked great and I would recommend the brand to anyone.  CHI is also a brand that makes a trustworthy product.  I use their blow dryer and flat iron at work.  They use ceramic technology for their heating elements.  There are store brands that function well enough to get you by if you haven't tried an iron that is of a better quality.  Revlon, Remington, Conair and Gold 'n Hot are brands that have irons that function well enough, but you may have to hold the iron on your hair longer to get the curl to set properly.
















You also want to make sure you have a proper setting spray.  It will protect your hair from the heat, while holding the curl in for a longer period of time.  One of my personal favorites is from Aquage.  This is a brand that you will only see in privately owned salons, not in corporate chains.  They have two options depending on how much hold you want.  For a softer hold curl, use Beyond Body Thermal Spray.  For a more intense curl with strong hold, use Working Spray.

Another brand that has good styling sprays is Redken. They also have a softer spray and a firmer spray. Their Spray Starch is at a hold level of 15 out of 25. It's a spray that helps to protect your hair from heat damage and eliminates static. It "starches" in the curl pattern of the iron you use.  Then, there is Redken's Hot Sets.  It has a hold level of 22 out of 25, and it will give you a much stronger curl, while protecting it from the heat of the iron. 

If you have hair that is very resistant to curl, you may want to choose a firmer holding spray to give it more staying power.  Finish with a hairspray to hold it in place.  One of the best I've seen, so far, is Sebastian Shine Define.  It is a flexible holding hairspray that gives curls shine, definition, and bounce.  It also helps to hold curls in for longer than other, similar sprays.  Other hairsprays work just fine to hold your curls in place, too.




I hope that this gave you more information than you ever thought there was about curling irons.  I'll have another post at another time that will give you tips and tricks on getting the curl you want.  Check out my Facebook page for more updates and tips or specials at the salon.  Kelly Conner, Hair Stylist

The 5 O'Clock Shadow

Men's Style Friday

 

Image Courtesy of ArtOfficialShop.com

 

Gentlemen, when you decide that you want that rugged, 5 o'clock shadow look, there is a way to make it look good and not like you just haven't shaved for days. Most important is keeping the edges neat. If you have some hair that grows sporadically on your cheekbones, you should shave that off and leave a neater line that edges your beard. You should also shave the excess off of your neck and leave a neat edge along the top of your neck, just under your chin. Take a beard trimmer and keep the setting at 1/8-1/4" to keep it close to achieve the rugged look of the 5 o'clock shadow. You will look just dishevelled enough to look like you just woke up that way, but just neat enough to show that you care about yourself and your appearance. Trust me, gentlemen, those whom you are trying to attract really do notice that kind of thing.

Using the Cold Shot Button

Tips, Tricks & Products Thursday
 

Image Courtesy of EBay

 On most blow dryers, there is a button above the heat and/or speed setting buttons. You just press the button and it stops the dryer from creating heat. Or, if you have a good dryer, it should turn your dryer into a mild air conditioner. But why do dryers have this feature? Believe it or not, it does a number of things in one simple step.

Heat changes the physical bonds of the hair temporarily. It will create curl where there is straightness, and will straighten out curl.  Cold air closes the cuticle layer of the hair.  This reaction causes many benefits to your hair's style. 

If the cuticle is sealed, the hair will reflect light better because it's surface is smoother, which in turn will make your hair look shinier and healthier.

Also, smoothing the cuticle layer will reduce frizziness and tangles because each strand will be getting caught less on the surrounding strands.

Another benefit to using the cold shot is what it does for your scalp.  Cooling your scalp down after blow drying it will close up the pores on the scalp leaving your scalp in better condition because less moisture will be lost, so if you have dry flaking, that will improve some. 

It will also reduce how much oil your scalp produces, so your hair won't need to be washed as often which is better for the health of the ends of your hair.  The oil from your scalp is precious to the ends because it protects it from becoming over damaged in the elements.

The cool shot will also help with keeping volume in your hair.  Heat left in your hair will allow your hair to flatten out while your style is setting in place.  If you like volume, using the cool shot will help to keep as much volume as possible in your hair. 

Also, by reducing how much oil your scalp is producing, it will reduce how much the oil will weigh your root down, leaving your volume intact longer through the day.


When using the cool shot button, you only need to hold the button down and roughly blow dry the hair.  If you're looking for volume, flip your head upside down and shake your hair with one hand while aiming the nozzle of the dryer at your hair.  After about 15 seconds, flip your head right side up and use the cold shot to smooth your style back in place with your fingers. 

If you're looking to smooth your hair out, tilt your head backwards and aim the dryer down the hair shaft, smoothing your fingers through your hair.  You only need to hit your hair with the cold shot for about 15-20 seconds.  You will feel the hair physically cool down.  Just give it a few more seconds after that point to ensure that it is fully cooled down.  Then, your style is complete and ready for the day.

So, now you understand how one simple step is capable of doing so many things.  I hope that you start using this feature and learn how much better your hair can look.

Caring For Your Color

Color Fun Wednesday

You go to the salon every month to get your hair beautiful, rich and shiny.  You leave feeling excited and renewed.  You walk around for the rest of the day with more bounce in your step, your hair swinging from side to side.  Then, about two weeks later, you've lost that excitement and things become normal again.  The color has lost some of it's shine and it just feels like your normal old hair again.  What you don't realize is that there are things that you can do at home to help prolong your color's richness and shine.  Here are a few tips and tricks that will keep your color looking it's best until you are due back in the salon.

 

~Use Color Care Shampoo.

As simple as this may seem to be, some people have a tendency to just use "whatever is in the shower".  And if they run out of shampoo before making it back to the salon for their next appointment, they'll run to a discount store of some kind and pick up any shampoo that looks or smells good.  That's not the best way to prolong your hair color.  You spend good money on getting your hair colored and you spend precious hours in the salon getting it beautified.  Would you wash your cashmere sweater in any old detergent you found?  No, you wouldn't.  Then why would you treat your hair with any less care?  Remember this fact:
 
Your hair is a permanent accessory that goes with you
everywhere, every day. 

Treat it like a fine fabric.  After all, once you've damaged it, there's only so much you can do to make it feel soft again.  And the damage won't go away until you've cut the damaged hair off.  Those discount shampoos open the cuticle layer of the hair up and pull color out through the open layers of cells.  Remember the shingles on the roof analogy from "Shampooing, Conditioning and Towel Drying Your Hair"? If you are lifting the cells away from the central structure of the hair, you will allow more of the pigment molecules to leave the hair, leaving your hair dull and faded.
 

When choosing a color care shampoo, lean towards Sulfate Free if you can.  The sulfates are an ingredient that create a rich lather from the shampoo, but they have a tendency to open the cuticle layer too far, again, pulling some color out of the hair's cortex (the inner layer below the cuticle).  Just remember what else I mentioned in "Shampooing, Conditioning and Towel Drying Your Hair".  Sulfate free shampoos lather will be more of a wet foam, not a rich lather.
When choosing your shampoo, talk to your stylist.  Every stylist has their favorites.  My personal favorite is Schwarzkopf Color Save.  I have never seen reds and vivid colors last as long with any other shampoo as they have with this shampoo.  It is the shampoo that I have in my shower.  Unfortunately, we stopped carrying this product line in my salon, so I have to fall back on my other two top picks.
 

One is Redken Color Extend Shampoo .  It has Redken's Interlock Protein Network in it, which is a group of proteins that help to build strength in the hair.  It also has UV filters that help to reduce the damage the sun causes the hair, and it uses cranberry oil to add shine and enrich your color.

I also refer my clients to Biolage's ColorTherapie.  It has a protein complex similar to Redken's that helps to add strength back into the hair.  It also uses hibiscus oil to add shine to your color, as well.

Both of these shampoos, on the other hand, have sulfates.  I started looking through the ingredients list of all of our products to find our sulfate free options.  It's A 10 is a well known and respected brand.  If I weren't using Schwarzkopf, this is the shampoo I would use.  I already use their Intensive Masque as my conditioner, and their Miracle Leave In Spray and their Styling Serum after my shower.  They have their original formula, a keratin infused option, a volumizing leave-in and a treatment for blondes.  Then, there is Pureology.  Their entire product line is 100% Vegan and meant for color treated hair.  Their shampoos are sulfate free and are good for preserving the richness of your color.  Tigi Colour Goddess is a shampoo that helps brunettes and red heads keep their richness for longer between color.  MoroccanOil's shampoos are also free of sulfates.  They have both volumizing and moisturizing options.  Regis has their DesignLine brand with a few sulfate free options.  Enchanted and Enchanted Midnight are Regis' most recent additions to their product line.  They were specifically created for color care and protection.  Their Moisture Shampoo is also sulfate free and their Ultimate Radiance is a great cleanser that leaves the hair feeling soft and looking shiny.

I haven't had a chance to use all of these products yet, but I will start testing them out for you guys with my hair and see what kind of results I get.  With the funky colors that I do, I'll be able to see how much each shampoo fades my color easily.

 

 

 ~Use Cool Water

 

When washing and conditioning your hair, cool water helps to keep the cuticle layer of the hair closed more, so that the pigment molecules won't seep out during washing.  It also helps to keep the cuticle sealed when rinsing out the conditioner.

The Shag Cut

Cuts & Trends Tuesday

 

The Shag

 

For many people who lived through the 70s, the shag is a cut that will always be remembered.  But what about the people nowadays?  They're missing out on a personal favorite style of mine.  This is a cut meant for those with a lot of hair who want their look to be wispy and piecy.  It's massive layers and face framing strands create a look that can be worn soft and wispy or jagged and piece-y.  The shag has also been modified and modernized to suit many face shapes and hair types, as well as many style levels.  Whether your style is edgy or classic, retro or modern, there is a shag to suit your style.

The first photo is of my shag cut from 2007.  Very short layers with lots of face framing texture.  The photos are from the following websites.

 

http://shag-haircuts.com/

 

http://www.hair.becomegorgeous.com/stylish_haircuts/bouncy_shag_haircuts-2407.html

Utilizing YouTube

Styling Saturday

 

It's Saturday afternoon.  You're looking for a new idea of what to do with your hair because you're going out tonight, but you have no idea where to begin.  Start with the basics.  Do you want to wear your hair up or down.  If you don't know, think about the weather & your outfit.  If it's going to be chilly, leave your hair down to keep your neck warm.  If it's going to be hot and muggy, better get your hair off of your neck.  What if you want to leave your hair down, but can't stand it in your face?  Then you want to do half and half. 

 

Now that you've figured that out, what kind of style do you have?  Do you like edgy looks?  Retro?  Classic?  Now you have all you need to start looking for ideas. 

So, your style is Retro and you want your hair pulled up.  Go to YouTube and type in Retro Up Style.  You will find all kinds of videos and options for your hair.  Watch them through once and then give it a try.  Don't expect it to be perfect the first time.  It's going to take you some practice, so have patience with yourself.  Give it a chance to get easier before giving up on a style.  The internet is overloaded with tutorials on how to do your hair. Just play around punching in new ideas and see what you get. And remember, hair is supposed to be fun.